Suit Style Glossary

Shopping for a suit can be a little bit overwhelming but Threadwell’s expert clothiers help make it easier. Make the most out of your new suit and elevate your style by recognizing which components make up the different pieces, and the purposes they serve. 

Here is a comprehensive guide to terms that you might need to know when creating and altering your own custom suit. 

Introduction to custom

Custom- A piece of clothing that is made to order, rather than purchased off the rack in a store. Custom clothing is usually made to the precise measurements of the wearer.

Drape- How a suit or garment hangs and flows off the body. This can also refer to the weight of the material used for a garment. 

Three Piece Suit- A suit that includes a jacket, vest, and trousers. People often wear these to special occasions, such as weddings, though they can be worn at any time. A three piece suit is also a great staple for your closet because it is easy to mix and match.

Two Piece Suit- A suit that includes a jacket and trousers. This is the most universal type of suit and can be worn for most any occasion. 

Tuxedo- This is the most formal suit style and it can be two or three pieces. The jacket usually has a silk or satin collar and lapel, and the pants may have a satin stripe down the sides.

Jackets

Styles 

Sport coat- Sport coats are the least formal of the jacket styles and are great for business casual and casual wear. They can be paired with any type of pants and look great with jeans. 

Blazer- In terms of formality, blazers are between sport coats and suit jackets. They are slightly more relaxed than a suit jacket, but not as relaxed as a sport coat. However, people often use the terms blazer and sport coat interchangeably, because the difference is so minimal. Traditionally, blazers were navy blue, but now you can find them in other solid colors.

Suit Jacket- Suit jackets are always part of a full set, a two-piece or a 3-piece, and are usually longer and more structured than a blazer or a sport coat. Suit jackets are the most versatile because they can be worn with or without their pant counterpart and are an easy way to create multiple looks.

Overcoat- A longer coat worn over indoor clothes. All overcoats are thigh length or longer. They are usually made of a thicker material, to keep you warm in the winter months. A car coat is a shorter version of an overcoat and can be anywhere from suit jacket length to mid thigh.

Double Breasted- A jacket with two columns of buttons going down the front and the fabric will overlap when closed. It will typically have four or six buttons, but can be anywhere from two to eight buttons.

Single Breasted- A jacket that has one column of buttons. It may have one, two, or three buttons, depending on your preference. One button is considered more formal and is usually used on tuxedo styles, whereas the two button style is most timeless and classic. 

Lapels

Lapel- The folded fabric on the front of the jacket that is attached to the collar.

Notch Lapel- The fabric is sewn into the collar at an angle to create a notched shape. This is a more classic type of lapel and can be used for any occasion.

Peak- The fabric is sewn into the collar pointing upward so that it creates a peak that usually extends up above the collar. Peak lapels are still classic, but not as timeless as notch lapels and are often used on formal suits and tuxedos. However, they can be added to any suit for a more fashion-forward look.

Shawl- A continuous collar that doesn’t have any type of separation between the collar and the lapel. This type of lapel is most commonly used on tuxedos.

Pockets, Details and Construction

Flap pocket- Pockets that are built into the jacket and have a flap covering the opening at the top. This pocket is very versatile, and you can even push the flap down into the pocket to create the look of a double besom pocket. 

Patch pocket- Pockets that are sewn onto the outside fabric of the jacket. This creates a more casual look, but the jacket can still be worn for business and events. 

Single Welt pocket- A pocket built into the jacket without a flap covering the opening. This is the most formal type of pocket. The double besom pocket is a type of welt pocket. 

Double Besom pocket- A pocket that is built into the jacket and includes two small welts that almost look like piping.

Pick stitch- Hand stitching along any seam of a suit jacket or sport coat. This stitching can be in matching or contrasting thread colors.

Ticket pocket- A small pocket placed just above the right pocket on a jacket. Traditionally used to hold tickets for a show, this pocket is a nod to custom because it is not often found on off the rack options and helps to showcase the custom design.

Vents- Overlapping slits worked into the back of a jacket from pant waist level through the bottom edge of the jacket that allows it to drape naturally and comfortably while sitting or moving around. It also allows for easier access to the pant pockets.

Single vent- Can also be called a center vent. A vent down the middle section of the back of the jacket. Can be a little bit more casual and used on sport coats and blazers. 

Double vent- Can also be called side vents. Vents on either side of the back part of a jacket. Double vents can accommodate a slimmer fit.

Seal stitch- A simple stitch holding the pockets of the jacket closed. This helps the pockets and jacket to remain flat during travel, as well as protect the garment. They can be removed upon delivery. 

Dress Pants

Break- Indicates the amount of fold in the fabric at the bottom of the pant leg where it touches the shoe.

No Break- A pant length that barely touches the top of the shoe and can be worn with or without socks to create a more modern look. 

Half Break-  A pant length that creates a slight fold in the front and the ankle will be covered when standing. This style is considered more contemporary. 

Full Break- A pant length that creates a full fold in the front, so the bottom of the pant leg covers a little bit more than half of the back of the shoe. This style can be considered more traditional and is slightly longer than the half break. 

Flat Front- Pants without front pleats.

Outseam- The measurement from the top of the waistband on the outside edge of the pants to the bottom of the pant leg.

Pleat- A small section of fabric that is folded on the front of the pants along the waist. Pants can have a single or double pleat. 

Cuff- The finished bottom of the pant leg is folded up over the outside of the pant. You do not have to have a cuff on your pants, but they are usually 2 inches wide or less. 

Hopefully, now you understand each of the components that make up your custom garment. With this knowledge, you can now design your own pieces with the confidence that you know exactly what your new outfit is going to look like when you order.

Ready to start creating? Contact us to make an appointment to start designing your perfect custom suit.